~ Walking from Astorga to Pradela ~
To Astorga
This was a long day as I walked through the last of the meseta and into the hills. The farmlands were golden in the morning sun, the air fresh and the sky clear. Glorious!
I arrived in Astorga in the early afternoon tired and hot. The hostel I picked was incredibly cute with an adorable garden, hot showers and newer facilities. The kitchen was open and they made me an incredible salad! I got to nurse my blisters (the knife I brought has a multitude of uses!) and rest up a bit before heading into town to check out the Palace of Gaudi’.
Turns out the person who told me he was a fascist was confusing him with Dali’ so I can thoroughly enjoy his architecture with no moral qualms.
To Camponaraya
At this point I begin to strategically make my way past the large downhill portions of the Camino. I take a wee train to Ponferrada and walk the rest of the way to a small little village along the way.
I passed an incredible castle built in the 11th century, a beautiful river and a number of other small towns. The day was not terribly long, nor was it super interesting. I’d say it was my first “meh” day on the Camino. I think taking the train first thing in the morning makes it harder to find my Camino-bliss. That said, the hostel was clean, quiet and had a nice restaurant. The vibe was cliquey so I kept pretty much to myself. The next day would make up for the blah-ness of this day. For sure!
To Pradela
Not only are there different routes one can walk to make a pilgrimage (I took the Camino Frances, but there are many other options – up through Portugal or across the northern coast of Spain, for example) but within each route there are alternate routes. Almost each day, I got to navigate which way or ways I wanted to walk depending on how I felt, what I’d read or heard or whichever way the spirit moved me. (One of the photos below is an example of one of the maps I used in an app called Wise Pilgrim.)
This day I chose a 14 mile trek that veers off up into the mountains that most folks don’t take. It sounded gorgeous and I was up for the challenge. I made plans to stay in a small family hostel run by Anna and Miguel way up in the mountains.
The morning was dark and I walked from one town through another trying to shake the disappointment of the hard concrete, bright lights and busy roads. As the sun climbed into the mid morning sky, I entered a small village called Villafranca built up alongside a river on a steep hillside. My entire body relaxed into the mountains that rose up before me.
Crossing over the river, I entered a road which quickly led up one steep pathway after another. At first I walked through a neighborhood where an old woman (she was 92) leaned out her window and we had a nice chat. She gave me some great advice. “The way from here is difficult, very steep. Take your time, there is no hurry. Enjoy each footstep along the way.” We chatted for about 15 minutes before it was time to move along. I was already enjoying each footstep and I knew the day’s vibe had turned a beautiful corner.
I passed by human built walls and walls skirting huge rocks. Still going up, I gained 2500 feet of elevation in these last 5 miles. The pathway began to open up.
Crumbly and rocky underneath, it was important to watch where I stepped. Soon, I was walking through a chestnut forest that arched over me and gave me respite from the sun. I breathed in and breathed out and though my heart was pounding and my body was working hard, I did, indeed, enjoy every single step. It smelled amazing. My bliss was alive and thriving. The chestnuts strewing the ground were so pretty. The turning of fall was in the air.
The way opened up to vast views of the mountains and villages I’d walked through. The sun shone and the path continued up past pine trees (that smell!) and more chestnuts. I’d been alone for hours and the solitude was whole and peaceful and deeply calm.
I arrived in the small village of Pradela and made my way to Las Lamas, the hostel of Anna and Miguel. I walked through the sounds of cow bells tinkling, roosters and hens crowing and cackling and the wind whispering through the trees.
Anna greeted me like an old friend and made me a lunch that came straight out of her garden. I sat on her patio and looked out over the incredible view feeling so grateful I thought my heart would burst.
It turns out I was the only pilgrim staying with Anna and Miguel that night so the remainder of the day was quiet and peaceful with the occasional chats with my hosts about their lives, family and work.
Both Anna and Miguel grew up in this small town as neighbors. Anna went into the larger village of Villafranca for her studies and Miguel stayed back to care for his family, but they always knew they were in love and destined to be married. They were so sweet with one another and so kind to me, it seems they’ve found their place in the world and all is well.
So far I’d come 370 miles in almost four weeks. I passed a very restful and calm night in the mountains of Pradela and woke up feeling at peace, ready for whatever was next.
